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Châtelet-Les Halles by Heather Stimmler Hall
Smack in the center of Paris, it’s hard to avoid the Châtelet-Les Halles area, but many people try. Now might be the time to give it a second chance.In guidebooks and among Parisians Châtelet is known -- and hated -- for its ugly shopping mall, sex shops, and bands of intimidating youths hanging out in the maze of tunnels in the Châtelet-Les Halles Metro/RER station. But the area is changing, as Paris brushes off the dust on one of its older, less desirable neighborhoods in anticipation of a new park and shopping facility to replace the eyesore that replaced the once beautiful market hall in the city center. Not surprisingly, property prices have risen here as these changes start taking place – sex shops closing down, streets and neighborhoods on the mend. And, with a bit of common sense in the day and some street smarts at night, visitors and long-term residents alike will find an impressive selection of dining, shopping and nightlife options to suit all tastes at this Parisian crossroads.
Shopping
The best thing about shopping in this neighborhood is that many shops are open on Sundays when the rest of Paris is closed. Ignore the Forum des Halles shopping mall and check out the smaller boutiques on the surrounding streets. For top trends in clothing and accessories try Agnès b. (multiple shops on Rue du Jour), Scooter (10 rue de Turbigo), Et Vous Outlet (17 Rue de Turbigo), any shop along Rue Etienne-Marcel (Diesel, Kabuki, Barbara Bui, etc.) or vintage clothing at Iglaïne (Rue de la Grande-Traunderie). Shop for French copper pots and kitchen supplies at Mora (13 Rue Montmartre) or E. Dehillerin (18 & 20 Rue Coquillière), and several other shops around the intersection of rue Montmartre and rue Etienne Marcel. If you must enter the Forum des Halles, don’t miss the Espace Créateurs (Porte Berger, Level -1), a series of shops featuring the hand-sewn clothing of Paris’s up-and-coming young designers. Children will find a Merry-Go-Round and playground in the gardens between the Forum and the stunning (and highly underrated) Eglise Saint-Eustache. Security note: Women shouldn’t walk through this park alone after dark, as well as the Châtelet-Les Halles metro tunnels, and everyone should watch out for pickpockets and mobile phone snatchers at all times.
Dining
Châtelet-Les Halles is the place to go for hunger pangs at any hour and on any budget. Find classic Parisian fare on the terrace at Le Père Fouettard (9 Rue Pierre Lescot, 01 42 33 74 17), a cozy and bustling bistro with friendly service, hearty fixed-price menus under €15 for lunch, and a great selection of wines by the glass for €2-4. Chic locals hang out at the jazzy Carpé Diem Café (21 Rue des Halles, 01 42 21 02 01), for creative French lunch and dinner specials or cocktails with live DJs on the weekends. Ignore the ubiquitous fast-food chains and grab a Nutella or ham & cheese crêpe for under €6 at the crêpe stands along Rue Saint-Denis (which are made fresh, unlike the panini sandwiches in the display cases), or for a healthy budget option try the Scandinavian eat-in or take-out deli Nils (36 rue Montorgueil), with Nordic sandwiches, salads and beer. Homesick Americans flock to the Sunday brunch at Joe Allen (30 Rue Pierre Lescot, 01 42 36 70 13), a refined New York restaurant with French touches in the kitchen, while The Frog & Rosbif (116 Rue Saint Denis, 01 43 36 34 73) does a full English breakfast on Sundays with live jazz in a casual kid-friendly atmosphere.
Nightlife
The Ladies of the Night and flashing-neon sex shops aren’t the only attractions in this neighborhood after dark. The Irish bars around Châtelet-Les Halles attract English-speaking expats, tourists, and the locals who’d like to meet them, including the Frog & Rosbif, McBride’s (54 Rue St-Denis), and Quigley’s Point (5 Rue du Jour), while the Australian Café Oz (18 Rue St-Denis) has live DJs and dancing after dark. Jazz aficionados head to Rue des Lombards for Le Baisé Sale (#58), Duc des Lombards (#42) and the Le Sunside/Sunset (#60), or try the more intimate Petit Opportun (15 Rue des Lavandières-St-Opportune). Discover Gay Paree at the Tropic Café (66 Rue des Lobards) or the more colorful Banana Café (13 Rue de la Ferronerie), both open until 5am.
Heather Stimmler-Hall is an American travel writer living in France since 1995. She’s the author of the Paris & Ile-de-France Adventure Guide (Hunter Publishing, 2004) and editor of the Secrets of Paris Newsletter. To sign up for the newsletter, visit www.secretsofparis.com. Heather provides custom, private tours of Paris neighborhoods to help familiarize visitors with city’s central tourist districts and charming historic quarters as well as up-and-coming areas and quiet residential neighborhoods off the beaten path. For inquiries, email Heather at heather@secretsofparis.com.
